Rome, Italy
Exclusive Editor’s Tips:
Tour Villa Medici, the French Academy in Rome
High up on the Pincio Hill, just a few minutes’ walk from the Spanish Steps, Villa Medici is one of the most spectacular Renaissance villas in Rome. Originally built in the 16th century, it gets its name from its erstwhile owner Cardinal Fernando de’ Medici, grand duke of Tuscany, but was transformed into the French Academy in Rome by Napoleon in 1803. It hosts exhibitions and cultural events, but the only surefire way to see it is to join a guided tour of the historic rooms and gardens. Tours cost €14 and are offered in English at 11 a.m., 12 p.m., 3 p.m., 4 p.m., and 5:30 p.m. every day except Tuesday.
Eat the Best Carbonara in Rome
If the Eternal City had a signature dish it would be carbonara—the creamy pasta sauce made with silky beaten eggs, salty pecorino romano, and crunchy bits of guanciale (pork jowl). And in a city with fierce competition for the best carbonara, there are three restaurants that vie for the title. If you’re keen to venture to San Giovanni to see what the young, rising star chef Sarah Cicolini is cooking up, book a table at Santo Palato, where she serves a superlative carbonara and other classic Roman dishes with a twist. For the quintessential Roman trattoria experience, line up for a table at the family-run Da Enzo al 29 on the edge of Trastevere, which adheres strictly to the traditional recipe. Or book well in advance to try the unctuous spaghetti carbonara at beloved classic Roscioli Salumeria Con Cucina by Campo de’ Fiori.
Stroll Rome’s best (semi-secret) shopping street
The area around the Spanish Steps is Rome’s most upscale shopping district, famously stuffed with designer stores from all the biggest names in fashion. For Rome’s best independent boutiques, head instead to Via di Monserrato near Campo de’ Fiori. This cobblestoned street is a hub for artists and artisans like Gilbert Halaby, a Lebanese painter and designer who sells boldly colored leather bags at Maison Halaby and paints at a studio across the street; Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla, the husband-and-wife team behind cult concept shop Chez Dédé, which sells stylish bags of their own design, T-shirts featuring Ferolla’s illustrations, books, and vintage jewelry; and Soledad Twombly, who curates an eclectic collection of clothes, jewelry, and home décor at L’Archivio di Monserrato. Finish it all off with wine at the bar in the Pierluigi and fabulous seafood al fresco at private culinary experiences.




