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Isafjordur, Iceland

Visit Önundarfjörður Pier on the way to Dynjandi

Dynjandi is one of those natural landmarks everyone should see when they’re in the area. Local lore tells a story of supernatural beings living in each of the falls (there are seven total) and it’s easy to believe once you set eyes on the hypnotizing free fall—the largest in the Westfjords. Located 50 minutes south of Ísafjörður, there’s one pit stop you’ll must make on your way to the waterfall: the white sand beach at Önundarfjörður Pier. Iceland may be known for its swaths of black sand, but this nook looks like it belongs in a much warmer climate. More often than not, you’ll have the pier and surrounding beach to yourself, offering a rare opportunity to gaze at the mountains and bay without any distractions. When you arrive at Dynjandi, make the most of the multiple viewing platforms (it’s a 30-minute journey from the parking lot to the top at a stroller’s pace) and be sure to wear a water-resistant layer if it’s windy; more often than not, a fine mist will find its way to you. 

Try cod tongue at Tjöruhúsið

You’ll hear locals and visitors alike make one recommendation when it comes to dinnertime—the fresh fish at Tjöruhúsið —but their lunch buffet is not to be missed. Atlantic Wolffish topped with capers and mushrooms, cod tongue in garlic butter, pan-fried plaice with cayenne and cherry tomato, and more fill the serving station alongside a variety of salads and potato dishes. The food checks a major box but the booming, podcast-ready voice of the owner, Haukur Magnusson, guiding you through the meal is an excellent ice breaker, fostering conversation among seatmates. Email tjoruhusid@gmail.com to reserve a spot at one of the communal tables at least a week in advance during the summer months; the energy is infectious and the waiting list is proof.

Go ‘bird watching’ in Flateyri

If you fancy yourself an ornithologist, you’ll love flaneuring through the nearby town of Flateyri. Since a tragic avalanche in 1995, the area—which has a population of fewer than 300 compared to Ísafjörður’s 2,700—has become a beacon for creatives. One of them is Jean Larson, an American-born artist who has painted 13 regional birds in murals on buildings and homes throughout the village. There is a physical map you can pick up in any of the restaurants or shops, but you could just as easily wander the streets searching for Arctic tern and eider duck on your own. While you’re out and about, check out The Old Bookstore, a family-run purveyor of new and secondhand books since 1914. The back half of the building is the original apartment of Jón Eyjólfsson, the founder, and his wife, Guðrún Arnbjarnardóttir. Ask the current owner, Eythor Jóvonsson, about the vintage comic books his mom used to thumb through growing up here.  
 

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