Adventures in Wine Country: 36 Hours in the San Francisco Bay Area

As a gastronome living and working in Napa Valley, knowing where to eat and drink is my bread and butter. And at Oceania Cruises, I know that food, wine and adventure are top priorities for you, so with a 36-hour itinerary stop in California’s port of San Francisco, surprises await just a hop, skip and a jump away. With one day in Napa and one in Sonoma, you’ll never look at wine country the same way again.

Day 1

12 PM: A wine lover’s lunch at Compline
After a delicious breakfast at The Grand Dining Room or Aquamar Kitchen, and a leisurely disembarkation at port, take an Uber or opt for a private driver and car via Oceania Cruises’ Executive Collection and travel to Napa Valley. Your first stop on the itinerary should be for lunch. Compline restaurant, situated in the plaza next to the Archer Hotel in downtown Napa, is the perfect choice. Pronounced COMP-lin, it’s named after the hour that officially ended the workday. Opened by sommeliers Matt Stamp and Ryan Stetins in 2018, it quickly became the go-to spot for wine industry professionals who wanted an upscale experience with a relaxed vibe. A small selection of wines from all over the world greets you in the mini-wine shop situated at the maitre’d’s stand. The spectacular food menu was created by executive chef Jammir Gray.

For lunch, you can never go wrong with the Compline Burger, which is one of the best in the valley. The balsamic onion, cheese and aioli burger is a staple, even when other items on the menu rotate off. Add duck fat fries, a stone fruit salad of cresta di gallo, miso, fennel and sesame, and then pair a great bottle or glass of bubbly to make your meal complete. You can expect knowledgeable and effusive fine dining service without the pretense.

2:30 PM: Tasting in Downtown Napa
On today’s itinerary, since you’re already in downtown Napa, a visit to the Brown Estate tasting room just around the corner, is a great intermezzo for the day’s multi-course jaunt. Brown was the first Black-owned winery in the valley. Though the winery and estate home are up a somewhat harrowing winding road in the Chiles Valley appellation, the chic marble and grey-blue-toned space oozes sophistication. And the wines are as high quality as they come.

Brown is a Zinfandel house, and their wines have been served annually at White House dinners for years. Lush, powerful red wines with an esteemed pedigree and delicious flavor are the perfect way to lead you into a wonderful night of more gastronomic adventures.

3:45 PM: Relax and recharge on the roof
Fatigue might be setting in at this point, from the car travel, big lunch and big red wines—so now it’s time to take it easy. What many people may not know is that Napa is well regarded for its spas. Sure, Calistoga is the valley’s mineral springs epicenter, but regular spas abound as well. A relaxing microcurrent facial or deep tissue massage might be just the ticket to give you the energy needed for the rest of your evening. The Rooftop Spa at the Archer Hotel offers a fitness studio, individual treatment rooms, a water deck and rooftop bar with delectable bites, should your pampering make you hungry.

6 PM: Dinner under the trees
A 15-minute drive north will get you to Yountville, Napa Valley’s “culinary capital,” where you’ll make your way to Restoration Hardware. Restoration Hardware has always been revered as a chic furniture store, but in recent years, beginning with its transformation of the 3 Arts Club building in Chicago, it has made its name in high design, high quality restaurant concepts. Napa Valley’s RH Yountville restaurant is adjacent to the historical stone Ma(i)sonry wine vault building. The intimate indoor-outdoor space features glittering greys, golds and neutrals that wouldn’t look out of place at the Palace of Versailles. Oak trees hover over each table, while chandeliers hang from them. The burrata with roasted peppers, Della Terra Aged Balsamic, basil and charred sourdough are the perfect, artful complement to the space, as well as the perfect starter for a fabulous meal. The Atlantic Dover Sole and the 16 oz. charred ribeye steak are two standout entrees on the menu.

8 PM: For those not ready to go back on board…
JaM Cellars, a winery and tasting room in downtown Napa known for its Butter Chardonnay, is also a music venue that hosts smaller acts. From Wednesday through Sunday, the space turns into a kind of speakeasy after dark.

Day 2

If you enjoyed the glitz and glam of Napa, it’ll be fun to see what the opposite of Napa looks like. Plan to enter Sonoma, California’s oldest wine region, and Napa’s much more relaxed neighbor.

7 AM: Begin your day with hot air
Your scenic drive from SF to the other side of the mountain – that is, Sonoma – will get you to the headquarters for Wine Country Balloons in Santa Rosa, a hot air ballooning company. You’ll likely be with about 12 other people who are just as eager as you are to see wine country vineyards from above. After a short training session on safety, you and your fellow balloon pilots will go up, up and away for an hour flight over the patchwork of the valley below. Once on the ground, expect a sparkling wine mini-brunch to reward you for your courage.

12 PM: Eat a delicious brunch in Healdsburg
Michelin star-awarded Barndiva is arguably one of the best restaurants in all of Sonoma County. The giant barn-like structure in downtown Healdsburg is deceptive in that it might feel rustic at first glance. But the interior’s high ceilinged, spacious digs let you know that your experience will be an elevated one. Though their dinner has moved to a multi-course prix fixe, brunch is still a la carte, and one of the tastiest you’ll ever encounter. The Bulldog Burger, Fried Chicken Toast and Reuben Benedict will fill both your heart and soul. The wine list is nothing to sneeze at either.

3 PM: Visit with Charlie Brown, Snoopy and friends
For a nostalgic end to a fun-filled two days, a visit to the Charles Schulz Museum will do wonders. Charles Schulz, better known as the creator of the Charlie Brown comic strip, was a longtime, beloved Sonoma County resident. The museum is where time stops and you’ll take a trip down memory lane with artwork and memorabilia of all of your favorite Charlie Brown characters: Charlie, Snoopy, Woodstock, Franklin, Linus and Lucy.

NOTE: Most of the above itinerary requires reservations ahead of time, which can be made on your own time before you board or once on board through the ship’s Executive Concierge.

About J’nai Gaither
J’nai Gaither is a freelance writer who specializes in wine and food journalism. Her work can be seen in Afar, Decanter, Wine Enthusiast, Plate, New York Magazine and others. When she’s not imbibing champagne or boarding a plane, she’s usually planning her next cruise vacation.